Tucked away along Mallorca’s southeastern coastline, where the Tramuntana mountains give way to gentle coves and crystalline waters, Ses Covetes emerges as one of the island’s best-kept secrets. This unassuming beach area, part of the municipality of Santanyí, represents the purest form of Mediterranean escape - a place where time slows to the rhythm of lapping waves and rustling pine trees. Unlike the developed resort towns in other parts of the island, Ses Covetes maintains an authentic charm that harks back to Mallorca’s fishing village roots.
Mallorcan olive oil tasting
Visit this virgin olive oil production facility in central Mallorca and taste its delicious oils. At this farm you can visit the olive groves, taste Mallorcan olive oil in local dishes, or take part in a guided tour of the facilities where the oil is produced.
The Gateway: Santanyí’s Rustic Elegance
The journey to Ses Covetes begins in Santanyí, a postcard-perfect town that serves as the cultural heart of this region. About 12 kilometers inland, Santanyí enchants visitors with its golden sandstone architecture, narrow cobbled streets, and the imposing Sant Andreu church that dominates the skyline. The town’s medieval walls, though partially dismantled, still frame the historic center where artisans’ workshops and family-run bakeries line the pedestrian lanes. Every Wednesday and Saturday, the Plaça Major transforms into a bustling market where local farmers sell seasonal produce, leather goods, and the famous ensaïmada pastries. The contrast between Santanyí’s vibrant town life and Ses Covetes’ serene isolation creates a perfect balance for visitors seeking both culture and relaxation.
Navigating the Journey
Reaching Ses Covetes requires a bit of adventure. From Santanyí, the Ma-6100 road winds through an agricultural landscape of almond groves and vineyards before descending toward the coast. The final approach consists of an unpaved track that tests suspension systems but rewards travelers with increasingly breathtaking sea views. Parking presents the first challenge - a modest dirt lot near the beach fills quickly during peak season, prompting many to park along the access road. The lack of mass transit options means most visitors arrive by rental car, though some adventurous cyclists make the journey from nearby Cala Llombards along the historic Camí de Cavalls coastal path.
A Beach Unlike Any Other
Ses Covetes defies conventional beach expectations. Instead of sweeping golden sands, visitors discover a series of small, pebble-strewn coves framed by dramatic limestone cliffs. The namesake "coves" (small caves) pockmark the shoreline, creating natural shelters where bathers escape the midday sun. The water clarity here ranks among the best in Mallorca, with visibility often exceeding 15 meters - a snorkeler’s paradise revealing underwater seagrass meadows, darting damselfish, and the occasional octopus. Unlike commercialized beaches, you won’t find sunbed rentals or beach bars here. The only soundtrack comes from waves lapping against smooth stones and the distant cries of shearwater birds nesting in the cliffs.
Echoes of History
The Santanyí region whispers stories of its layered past. Defensive towers like Torre d’en Beu stand sentinel along the coast, remnants of Mallorca’s 16th-century watch system against Barbary pirates. The area’s distinctive sandstone quarries supplied building material for Palma’s cathedral and other landmarks, while the drystone walls crisscrossing the hinterland testify to generations of agricultural labor. Traditional festivals keep these histories alive, particularly the January celebrations honoring Sant Antoni Abat, when bonfires illuminate the winter nights and demonic "dimonis" dance through the streets. The nearby fishing village of Cala Figuera, with its boathouses clinging to narrow inlets, offers a living museum of Mallorca’s maritime heritage.
A Taste of Authentic Mallorca
Santanyí’s culinary scene reflects the island’s farm-to-table philosophy. Family-run restaurants like Ca’n Mario serve up rustic dishes where local ingredients take center stage. The star attraction remains caldereta de llagosta, a rich lobster stew that originated in neighboring Cala Figuera. More humble but equally delicious is the frito mallorquín, a hearty sauté of lamb offal with potatoes and peppers that showcases the island’s nose-to-tail cooking tradition. For lighter fare, the tumbet - Mallorca’s answer to ratatouille - layers eggplant, red bell peppers, and potatoes in a tomato sauce. Morning might begin with pa amb oli, the island’s iconic tomato-rubbed bread drizzled with local olive oil, perhaps accompanied by sobrassada, the paprika-spiced cured sausage that’s a breakfast staple.
Beyond the Beach
While Ses Covetes’ crystalline waters tempt many to stay put, the surrounding area offers diverse experiences. Nature enthusiasts can explore the Mondragó Natural Park, where walking trails wind through coastal dunes and wetlands teeming with birdlife. History buffs might visit the nearby Talaiotic settlement of s’Hospitalet Vell, a Bronze Age archaeological site. For contemporary culture, Santanyí’s summer music festival transforms the town into a stage for jazz and classical performances. The more adventurous can kayak along the dramatic coastline to discover hidden sea caves, while photographers will find endless inspiration in the play of light on Ses Covetes’ sculpted cliffs during golden hour.
The Art of Slow Travel
What truly sets Ses Covetes apart is its resistance to mass tourism’s encroachment. Without large hotels or souvenir shops, the area maintains an authenticity increasingly rare in Mallorca. Visitors become temporary participants in the slow rhythm of local life - rising with the fishermen’s boats at dawn, savoring three-hour lunches in shaded terraces, joining the evening paseo along Santanyí’s lantern-lit streets. The limited tourist infrastructure means those who come must adapt to the island’s pace rather than expecting the island to cater to them. This mutual respect between visitor and visited creates a more meaningful connection to place.
Practical Magic
For those willing to embrace its simplicity, Ses Covetes offers practical rewards. The lack of commercial development means no crowds even in August, while the pebble beach ensures the water remains startlingly clear without churned-up sediment. The nearby Ses Fontanelles watchtower provides a spectacular vantage point for sunset viewing, and the absence of light pollution makes for incredible stargazing. Travelers should come prepared with supplies - sturdy water shoes for the rocky shore, a cooler with picnic provisions, and enough Catalan phrases to exchange pleasantries with locals at the beach.
A Legacy Worth Preserving
As Mallorca grapples with overtourism in other regions, Ses Covetes stands as a testament to sustainable coastal enjoyment. The municipality has wisely resisted large-scale development, maintaining the area’s natural integrity. Visitors play a crucial role in this preservation by treading lightly, respecting the environment, and supporting local businesses in Santanyí rather than international chains. This conscientious approach ensures that future generations can experience the same unspoiled beauty that has drawn discerning travelers for decades.
In a world where many Mediterranean destinations have sacrificed character for convenience, Ses Covetes remains gloriously, stubbornly real. It’s not the easiest place to reach or the most comfortable to visit, but therein lies its magic. Those who make the effort discover something increasingly precious - a stretch of Mallorcan coastline that still belongs first to the sea, the land, and the people who call it home, welcoming visitors as privileged guests rather than mere consumers of experience. This is the true Mallorca, waiting patiently beyond the beach clubs and all-inclusives, ready to reveal itself to those willing to listen to its quiet song of wind, water, and stone.
